WALKS. Few things contribute more to the appearance of a garden than good, properly-proportioned Walks. Those that are to last in good condition must be properly made at first, as it is not an easy matter to keep repairing them, and, besides, it is seldom satisfactory. Various kinds of material are used, as much depends on what can be most readily procured. To make Walks in a proper manner, and provide all the material, is rather an expensive proceeding, particularly on a large scale. Where gravel of a binding nature is procurable, it is generally preferred to other materials for the surface, as being most appropriate, and best suited for garden paths. One of the principal objects is to make Walks so that they can be used in all weathers without discomfort; but this is often somewhat difficult, for although the gravel may be of a nature which is in good condition in wet weather, it will often be rough and stony during continued drought. The amount of traffic which a Walk is likely to have over it will prove of assistance as a guide in its formation. Besides gravel, asphalte, concrete, burnt ballast, and other substances, are sometimes used for the surface. Something may generally be said in favour of Walks formed of the two first-named-e.g., absence of weeds, durability when once made properly, and cleanliness at all times. Where it is necessary to have a hard, dry Walk, it may be preferable to make the surface of asphalte or concrete; but, as a rule, this is neither practicable nor desirable for garden paths where gravel is procurable in sufficient quantity. The question as to what the surface of a Walk shall be composed of, need not be further discussed, but left for settlement by individuals who have often to be guided by what materials they can procure. Passing on to the formation of Walks, such materials as are best adapted will be referred to. One of the most important considerations is efficient drainage; this may be readily insured where the ground is undulated, but not so easily on a flat surface. Sometimes, Walks will drain themselves naturally without pipes, if the sub-soil is composed of gravel; but wherever they are sufficiently wide to be of importance, and there is clay beneath, a proper system of drainage is necessary. A good plan is to lay a row of ordinary 3in. drain-pipes the full length, either beneath the centre or near one side of the Walk, and conduct the water to the best available outlet. Catch-pits, with iron gratings on the top, should be placed on both sides near the edges, and these should be connected with the drain, so that any quantity of water may run away as fast as it enters. The width to be determined upon will vary, sometimes according to the length of the Walk, and at others to the extent of the space or inclosure through which it passes. In a large, walled-in kitchen-garden, for instance, it is usually found most convenient to have a Walk running parallel with the wall all round, allowing a space of 10ft. or 12ft. between for a border, on which vegetables, &c., may be cultivated, and two others intersecting each other in the centre of the inclosure, where it is very convenient to have a water basin for a constant supply. The intersecting Walks in this arrangement may be a little wider-2ft. or 3ft.-than those running parallel with the walls; this will distinguish them as being the principal ones. In very large gardens, it may be necessary to have more divisions than these, and, in addition, small, narrow paths, for sub-dividing the ground, are requisite; these latter are not usually gravelled. Flower-gardens, pleasure-grounds, terraces, &c., have Walks which vary greatly in width, as a matter of course; but the system of making may be carried out similarly in all. The nearer the two edges are to a level or an equal incline, the easier is it to proceed. When laying out a new garden or grounds, some fixed points have to be made from which the levels are taken, and their positions must correspond somewhat to the natural disposition of the ground. Assuming that the width is determined, and a new Walk is to be made, the edges, of whatever description they are, must be first levelled and prepared. The level, or an equal fall from two fixed points, may be ascertained by the use of borning-rods; a straight-edge. 10ft. to 12ft. long, and a good spirit-level, are also requisite. Edges require to be finished before the Walk is made, as they are a guide for gravelling, which it should not be necessary to alter afterwards. The mode of levelling with borning-rods for the edges and the Walk is similar; the highest and lowest points at the ends of any given length are fixed by pegs driven into the ground, and from these the proper height can be readily found throughout the intervening space. To insure firm edges, they should be made up with soil that is in a workable condition, and rendered firm by thorough ramming. New Walks, that are to be 10ft. or more wide, require excavating to a depth of from 9in. to 12in., the lowest point being made in the centre or wherever the drainpipes are intended to be laid. When these are inserted, about 6in. of rough material, such as clinkers or old bricks, should be placed above them; then a layer of something in the way of rough ballast, which should be well rammed, and the surface left in the shape which it should present when finished; and then 2in. or 3in. of fine gravel should be laid over the top. This will become much less in bulk so soon as it is trodden over and the roller applied. The proper height of the Walk, when finished, may best be indicated by driving in wooden pegs down its centre, about 10ft. apart: the positions of these may be obtained by the levelling instruments in the same way as for the edges, and the pegs can be pulled up as the finishing coat of gravel is put on. All Walks should be kept higher in the centre than at the edges, in order that rain-water may pass readily into the gratings, and efficient surface drainage be insured. The height at which it is advisable to fix the centre of a Walk above the edges depends on the width. Walks less than 8ft. wide, and with a fall lengthways, will generally be sure to drain if the centre is kept on the same level as the verge or edging, provided the surface is made so that the gravel at the edges is about 2in. lower when the work is completed. The iron gratings may be placed 2in. below the level of the edges in almost all walks. The centres of 8ft. or 10ft. walks should be raised 1in. above the edge level, and, as a general rule, 1/2in. more may be added for every 2ft. width, so that a walk 28ft. or 30ft. wide would require its centre up 4in. to 6in. above the edges, to prevent water accumulating there instead of passing to the gratings. These heights will not be found too great a proportion for the widths; this always needs consideration, or the surface will not be comfortable to walk upon. Before proceeding to put on the finishing coat of gravel, the rough material beneath must be rammed quite firm, and consolidated about equally throughout. The top gravel should be levelled with a wooden rake, used by a workman who, from experience, is able to do it properly. The want of a spit may cause a hollow place in the surface, and improper levelling has an equally objectionable effect, which will be readily apparent when rain comes. As the person levelling proceeds, another should be treading the surface crossways, and removing the levelling pegs, which, by this time, have served their purpose. A second rake must then follow, to remove any stones and inequalities caused by treading. A light roller may then be used, and afterwards a heavy one, if the Walk will carry it without the gravel clinging. It is advisable to get new gravel firmly rolled, if possible, before rain comes, as if water gets into it when loose, it often takes a long time to get a solid surface. To keep gravel Walks in good order, they must be rolled frequently when the weather allows, both in summer and winter. If the surface is too dry, but little good would result from rolling, and if too wet it might cling, or be positively injured; some judgment must, therefore, be exercised in selecting the proper times when rolling may be beneficially practised.